Attached are all the drawings with complete dimensions and specs in "DIY CNC Router meteolille.info" The parts list pdf contains all the parts and tools listed in. diy cnc router plans PDF Homemade cnc router plans free Download woodworking for kids plans Diy cnc router plans carving letters in wood diy cnc router. Plans to build Cnc Router Table Plans PDF download Cnc router table plans So it will be more for Vacuum Table When I first started to design and build my first.
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The plans for this machine are available in eDrawings (EASM) and PDF format. For those not familiar, easm is a free 3D format that allows you to rotate, zoom. BUILDING YOUR. VERY OWN, FULLY-FUNCTIONAL,. AUTOMATED MACHINE THAT CUTS,. CARVES, ENGRAVES, AND DRILLS. Build Your Own. CNC. and plans will provide you with a comprehensive set of instructions to complete your project and enjoy being productive with your DIY Desktop CNC Machine.
The counter bored holes go to the y axis bearings, start there. Once that is good move on to the tapped holes for the z axis rails, you should transfer punch these so it shouldn't be that hard.
Then do the center tapped holes for mounting the drive parts. Finish off with the holes in the top edge of the plate. I had to spin the head of my drill press around and hold the plate with a separate vice in order to drill these holes. You'll probably have to do some thing clever like this unless you have a larger drill press with more clearance.
Like before just mark, center punch and drill to finish this part. Note the extra holes in this part are not needed, follow the drawing and you'll be fine. I did this with the band saw in the vertical position. The z axis goes together much like the x and y but you'll need to mount the z axis plate to the y axis bearings before bolting on everything for the z axis. If you have built everything up to this point, you are a master hole driller and this part will come out perfect.
At least thats what I thought when I finished this part. Use those newly acquired and quickly mastered skills to finish off the precision parts needed for this machine. The 4 threaded rods are each 4" long and bolt this base and the x axis frame together. They are also used to level the frame. I used a 1" spade bit to counter bore the holes in the mdf. You should go deep enough to allow the stud and nut to sit below the surface of the wood.
There are two table support bars that bolt to the x axis frame. Then with the plates still attached to the frame weld the tubes to the plates. By doing this you ensure that the finished part will be able to be removed and bolted back in place on the frame. You don't have to weld the entire end of each tube the plates, just put four good tack welds on the corners at each end.
Then you can unbolt the support bars from the frame and fully weld the tubes. Also when drilling the three holes in the tube be sure to drill through both sides.
You will only need to tap the top side on the tube but the through holes will allow you to transfer the hole locations on tho the work table. This is the surface that the material will be clamped to. I chose to use MDF for this purpose because it will be a sacrificial piece and can be cheaply replaced when needed.
I will be screwing down work to this and can cut into it if needed. The screws need to be fully threaded. The six screws are used to mount and level the work table to the machine. The counter bored holes allow the screw heads to sit below the table surface so material can be attached easily. The electronics for this router consist of main power switch, power supply, stepper motor controller, power relays, stepper motor cables, outlet and an e-stop.
I plan to adding limit switches and cable carrier e-chain soon. This is wired to the main power switch which has a red indicator light. When switched on the v AC is feed to the power supply and relays.
This is wired to the Gecko G The relays are used to power the Bosch Colt router and a shop vac to suck up the shavings when running. The relays are controlled by the G which takes commands from the computer, so they can be controlled by the code you run. The DB9 connectors on the G connect to the stepper motors. Each stepper needs a resistor placed between pins between 1 and 5 to control the current to the stepper. Gecko provided the proper resistor with the steppers motors I purchased from them.
The resistor needs to be wired to the connector that is connected directly to the controller. The stepper motor is wired to pins of the connector.
I made extension cables for the stepper motor with DB9 ends and the cat5 network cable from the parts list. The network cable has 8 conductors but i soldered pairs of wires together to get four connections for the stepper motor. The enclosure I used is an outdoor electrical box which I decided to use after seeing Building an Electronics Enclosure. The switches are mounted in a standard outlet box and the relays are bolted to the side of that box. The power supply was mounted in the box to the bottom side and the G was placed on the top panel.
The e-stop switch was also mounted to the top panel. I made all the connections using using 14 gauge stranded wire and crimp on spade connecters. The wiring picture is basic but does include all the needed connections. I am using Mach3 to control my router. Mach3 is CNC control software that takes G-code and outputs signals through the parallel port on a computer to the G It is highly recommended that you use a desktop computer to run mach3 and your cnc.
You will also need a CAM software to convert your designs into G-code or you could learn the G-code language and write your own programs in a text editor. The picture is a screen shot of Mach3 which will take some time to learn but there are many videos on the Artsoft website and this software is well supported.
HI, First i want to say thanks for this write up and the time you've put into it. I'm building this machine and am almost done. I have a question for you on the gantry uprights. It seems like you wouldn't need to drill holes the whole lenghth of the tube as the Z axis has a good amount of travel. Thats alot of holes to drill if there not usefull. Would you say after using the machine that all those holes are a little overkill? Also i added some support plates under the Z axis motor mount plate as it wanted to tilt forward a hair binding the leadscrew.
Thanks for all the info and hope to hear back about the uprights Reply 5 years ago on Introduction. That's great that your building the machine, please post pictures when its done.
The holes on the gantry uprights allow you to adjust the height of the gantry and the clearance between the bit and the work table. I designed it this way but did not fully follow through on the other change that makes this more useful. The idea is that for tall parts you can move the gantry up to get the needed clearance. For shorter parts, like sheet material you could move the gantry down closer to the part.
The part I have not done is add a second set of mounting holes on the router mounting plate.
The other set of holes would allow you to space the bearings on the z-axis further apart. This does two things. With the bearings further apart the router mounting plate becomes more rigid to resist higher cutting forces but it also reduces the travel of the z-axis.
This reduced travel is fine though because you can move the whole gantry closer to the part and because the part is not as thick you don't need the full travel. The idea really boils down to, if your cutting short materials, like sheet material, you can adjust the machine to optimize it for the material. Then if you want to cut something thicker you can adjust the machine to get max clearance and travel. You are right about the holes though, I could have done less, maybe just enough for a low ,medium and high setting.
But the router mounting plate still needs more holes to make this complete. I actually plan on doing this soon because I want to use the machine to drill a bunch of holes and moving the gantry lower and gaining some rigidity would make the machine better suited for this purpose. Here are the pics of my build of this machine. Very straight forward instructions.
Also the dust boot i had to make for the machine. Question 1 year ago on Introduction. Hi I am in Australia , cannot get a Nema oz in , they have Nema oz in rated at 3. Do you think this motor would be suitable for a CNC built to router wooden signs , boxes etc..
Thank you Gordon Johnson. Reply 1 year ago. I am planning to build also. It is a great help for me and think before i start creating.
This is one of the best instructables I have ever seen. I will be using a lot of your ideas and parts references to build my own. Thanks again for all the effort you have put in, and the attention to detail.
I really love it.. Here i'm trying to make my own CNC.. IDK if it's going to be strong enough to hold it , if i needed some help , can u give a little?
Reply 3 years ago on Step 5. By Doug Costlow Follow. More by the author: I enjoy building things more than actually using them. For those of you who already know about CNC routers here are the specs for my machine. One of the aspects of any home built CNC machine is the use of each material in the construction of the machine vs the quantity of that material you have to buy. You are only building one machine so you don't want have to buy more material than you need to build that machine.
You especially need to consider this when deciding the length of travel you want for each axis, because this decision effects almost every other part of the machine. The pictures show the different versions of the router as my design progressed. I know most people would consider this to be overkill but for me doing all this important. I knew that once I finished actually building the machine I would have something that fit my needs and my budget without any headaches do to poor planning.
Here is my thinking for each one of the design steps I outlined: My first thought for a CNC machine was to build molds for the vacuum forming machine I have already built.
Linear Motion: There are many options to choose from for linear motion. Commonly used methods for CNC routers include, drawer slides , skate bearings , v-groove bearings , round linear rail and profile linear rail.
These are ordered in terms of cost, I would recommend going the best system you can afford.
You can save some money in other areas of the machine but getting a good motion system will pay off in cutting quality. I chose to use round linear rail. This system uses precision ground and hardened steel shafts and linear bearings that use small steel balls that roll on the shaft and re-circulate through channels within the bearing. This offers smooth low friction movement and has good resistance to forces placed on the bearing in any direction.
There are many different manufactures of these types of rails and bearings and costs can vary quite a bit. I got my rails and bearings from a reseller in China on ebay.
They often sells kits with three sets of rails and two bearings for each rail, which is what is needed for a 3-axis CNC.
The kit I got uses 20mm x mm long rails for the x-axis, 16mm x mm long rails for the y-axis and 12mm x mm long rails for the z-axis.
Linear Drive: The three basic options to drive each axis of a CNC router are ribbed belts, screws, and a rack and pinion. Screw drive systems work by attaching a nut to the movable part of each axis, a threaded rod is then fed through the nut and locked into position at both ends.
The screw is turned by the drive motors and the nut moves along the screw. ACME screws have trapezoidal threads that are either cut or rolled into a steel rod. ACME screw threads are used on common C-clamps. Their thread shape makes the screw stronger than the threads on standard bolts. When these threads are precision cut they are perfectly suited to drive a CNC router.
Ten threads per inch means that if the screw in spun around 10 times the attached nut will move 1 inch along the screw. For any screw size multiple individual threads can be cut on the screw, this is referred to as the number of starts the screw has. A single start screw has one thread a 2-start has two threads and a 5-start has five threads.
What is the significance of multiple threads on a screw? Well there are two things that make multiple start screws better for CNC machines. First multiple start screws are more efficient at turning the rotational force on the screw into linear force on the nut.
This means it takes less torque for the drive motors to move each axis. Second, multiple start screws increase the lead of the screw, which is how far a nut would move if the screw was rotated once. To determine the lead for a screw divide the number of starts by the number of threads per inch. This is important because the electric drive motor can produce the most torque at low speeds, and with a higher lead the nut will move farther per revolution of the screw and that means the motor can spin at a lower speed to move the axis of the machine.
Another important thing to note is how precise the fit between the nut and the screw is. A standard nut on a bolt will wiggle a small amount back and forth and in CNC terms this is known as backlash. You want to reduce the amount of backlash you have between the nut and the screw because every time the screw changes rotation direction that small amount of play in nut will throw of your CNC position off and your parts might not come out correctly sized.
There are ways with both hardware and the software you use to reduce the amount of backlash you have. On the software side there are simple settings that can compensate for backlash and on the hardware side you can use an anti-backlash nut. Here is the list of the main components needed to build this CNC mahine: Most people will need to buy these parts in order to build the machine.
This is a list of the tools I had to buy to build the machine: Use a sharp drill bit and set your drill press to a low speed RPM if possible. This is the ten step process I used while building the machine. Bring the bit back up, turn off the drill press and squirt some tap magic directly on the drill bit.
For the best results you should follow a technique called peck drilling. Then repeat this process until you drill all the way though the part or to the depth you want. This ensures that the part will still sit flat on the drill press table for the next hole you drill. Proceed to the next hole in the same manner.
Tapping a hole is the process of cutting threads into a part so that you can fasten a screw to the part. I made a special tool to help in tapping the many M5 holes for this machine.
The hole is drilled with a 9 bit, which is the same size as an M5 tap. You may like the linear motion system on one design but prefer the cutting bed design on another. They may also uncover aspects of your design that may or may not work. This is why we want to provide you with as many free plans and blueprints as possible.
There several companies devoted to providing plans you can buy. Some are worth while, and others are not. At the moment, we are working on several free plans complete with pictures, 3D and 2D downloads, and even videos. For now, feel free to check out the plans below. These designs have been tested and built by many CNC router enthusiasts. This set of plans is very detailed and contains dimensions on all parts.
This is a mobile gantry type designed around a wood or MDF construction utilizing skate bearings for the linear motion system. This build can be very sturdy if built correctly. The set of plans also contains a complete BOM bill of materials. Personal use ONLY! This is another very popular design. The linear motion system is also design around skate bearings. However, the x-axis employs dual rods and each side instead of one. This design is very ergonomic looking and employs anti-torsion framing and slanted gantry side arms to account for CG location.
This set of plans are in a 3D format which can be viewed, rotated, and dimensioned using a free E-drawing viewer that you may download here.